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Triking Alaska's
Dalton Highway
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May 2024
Wednesday 01 May 2024
We awoke to the sound of the waves crashing and yet another beautiful sunrise over the ocean this morning. Then, we noticed two Navy Warships and a helicopter conducting operations and exercises off the coast. HMAS Perth and one other which we couldn't identify, were doing their thing, and after a few hours in the area eventually moved on down the coast.
We spent the day doing little bits and pieces, choosing, deleting and editing photographs and giving the brakes on the house a check and adjustment. Other than that it was very quiet, peaceful start to the month.
Thursday 02 May 2024
There is something beautiful about going to sleep and waking up to the sound of waves crashing on the shore, and this morning was no different. A large bank of cloud on the horizon snuffed the sunrise out but it wa still a beautiful place to be.
Joanne headed into St Helens to do some shopping and the laundry, and I sat listening to the waves and typing this up. Unfortunately the clouds have come in and it looks like it will be a grey day.
Well the sun did eventually come out but, there was a burn off started just 150m or so away on the other side of the road, and although the wind was blowing it away from us, we wondered if it would end up a smoky night.
Friday 03 May 2024
After another night listening to the waves, we awoke to the smell of smoke all through the house. Thankfully we had been spared most of the smoke but, we still got a share in it. Today was time to move on anyway, so we packed up and headed out, back into St Helens and then down the coast, passing through some nice countryside and small towns as we went.
We climbed St Mary's pass and passed on through St Mary's and thinking of a stop in Cressy again, but as luck would have it, the free camp at Fingal (with power, water, toilets and a shower) was vacant, so we called it a day and took up residence on one of the powered sites.
Joanne took a walk around town, was given some apples off the tree that was hanging over into the park where we were parked up, and, the one and only train went past at the back of us.
Saturday 04 May 2024
Fingal was an excellent camp, and after we awoke to a very cool, foggy morning. It's a good job we have a diesel heater to take the chill off the place first thing in the morning and around sunset in the afternoon. After a nice hot $2 shower, we packed up, gave a donation and headed out once more, this time heading for Cressy.
We were passing over old ground but it was still nice to see the hedge rows alongside the roads and the occasional stately home surrounded by sheep in the paddocks. Once again, we could be forgiven for thinking we were in England.
We arrived in Cressy to find a number of campers in, and just before we set up camp, we changed our mind. We were going to go up the hill (mountain) to a look out.
As we made our way we could see a water pipeline going up the mountain, and as it turns out, it was coming from where we were going.
We climbed the long, windy road, getting around the hairpin bends in second gear. This went on for some time and then, there was the not very well signed turn off. Making our way up the gravel road we passed a nice gravel pit and then a smaller pull over, passed through a gate where the TasWater sign said no camping, passed the telstra tower and came to a clearing and lookout at the Poatina Headrace Adit.
The Poatina Headrace tunnel.
We could hear water rushing down the mountain but couldn't see it. Investigation of the tunnel showed it was a tunnel into where the water was piped and the water we could hear must have been an overflow and was coming out of the tunnel in a large drain before being fed down the mountain.
A look down towards where we had come from showed a long channel with a lock system and then a very large dam where the water is stored and then fed out to the surrounding countryside.
The view across the land and the direction we had come from.
Sunday 05 May 2024
Rather than camp up at the lookout, we decided to come back down the road about half a kilometer to the gravel pit to camp. It was a cold night and we awoke to a clear sky, a 2 degree temperature, a beautiful sunrise and fog in the valley.
Both of us got up and tried to get some good shots, but we had tree's in the way, so, we secured what we needed to and drove back up the hill to get better photos, to get dressed properly, and to have a porridge, yogurt and maple syrup breakfast, all washed down with a hot coffee.
The view.
A little closer in.
The sun is well and truly up now, and warming the fog and valley below.
We had a couple of vehicles come up for a look first thing this morning as we were there, but the place was just beautiful and quiet other than the sound of the water.
Photos and getting ready over, we packed up and headed up the mountain some more, topping out at around 1100m. Then it was some basic bush driving as we headed South through this alpine countryside that makes up the Central Plateau, orange road delineators and lost's of moss on plants and trees showing that it must snow up here.
After the top there was a gradual descent until we came out at the lakes, closed boat ramps (only open for the fishing season) and small alpine hut communities that enjoy prime spots along the shores of the Great Lakes area.
Climbing back up the hill we came to the lookout over Great Lake, but it was full of day trippers and there was nowhere for us to park, though we did find a small spot about 100m up the hill and reversed into it so as to walk back down for a photo, and with frost on the ground.
The lookout over the Great Lake
Photos over we continued along heading for the Liffey Forest Lookout, but just before we started to descend to it, we found a large gravel pit and decided to pull up there instead, and to leave the lookout to the Sunday drivers.
Monday 06 May 2024
We spent a peaceful night in our gravel put, though as darkness fell we were bemused by the flashing lights nearby. Had someone delivered some road work equipment and had the last car turned the lights on as a joke? Well, this morning when we awoke, we found out what the lights were - doh!
After the diesel heater had been turned off and the sun had warmed us enough, we packed up and headed off, making our way to Quamby Corner, a small farm stay come caravan park, where for $20 unpowered ($35 powered) we snagged a spot in the sun, and with free hot showers in spring water and free washing machines and dryers.
Once set up we left the house and made our way to Liffey Falls via the ever narrowing track. We were the first ones there and that was a bonus. We walked down the track and viewed the cascades and the gorge and the main falls before working our way back up as more visitors started to arrive.
Tessellated Pavement at the top of the cascades.
The front of the cascades.
The rock and small falls leading down to the gorge.
Some long exposure fun above the gorge.
The small waterfall leading down into the gorge.
The gorge.
The bottom falls at Liffey
A scene on the track back up.
Liffey Falls was a tick off the bucket list, and while it would have been nice to have had more water flowing, it was still a beautiful place to be first thing in the morning before the sunlight got too harsh.
Falls visit over we made our way back to camp for the rest of the day.
Tuesday 07 May 2024
Another cold night to give the diesel heater some exercise before bed, and we awoke to another cool morning of zero degrees. Packed up and heading out we made our way to Deloraine where we cast an eye over the very full free RV camp, utilised the dump point and then headed out again, this time to the small village of Chudleigh where we took up residence in the sunniest spot we could find and settled in.
Joanne took a drive to the wildlife park to see the Tassie Devils, and even got to pat one and took a drive to Mole Creek for a look as well, while I enjoyed the sun and processed some photos.
Wednesday 08 May 2024
Yes, it was cold again overnight, somewhere around 5 degrees, and yes, the heater got some exercise before breakfast. With one other camper in we took off and drove back through Mole Creek and onto King Solomon Cave, something Joanne had wanted to see. With a bargain price of concession and a 10% discount (each) for the Wildlife Park visit that Joanne had already done, we arrived for our 10.30am tour, and we were the only ones on it.
Juliette was our guide and she did a great job as she took us through the cave system, explaining about the cave, when it was found, how tours used to be conducted, about the various chambers and how the inside forms. An hour later we emerged from the dark and there was another tour, a group this time, ready to go in.
One of the areas inside the cave
Not only was the tour a great lesson on the cave, but it also provided some photography lessons as well. Not being able to take a tripod in, it meant using higher ISO and shutter speeds to capture the scenes which, despite the scattered lighting, was a low light environment.
Cave tour over we made our way to Alum Gorge, and after parking up then walking up, over the top of the ridge and back down again (100 steps and trail) we arrived at a lookout and a spectacular view.
Alum Gorge
Spending some time at the lookout we were eventually joined by another photographer who had come from Launceston. We chatted with him for a bit and then began the climb back up to the ridge and the descent to the carpark, passing some other people on their way to the lookout.
A dirt back road later and we were back at our camp at Chudleigh. A short walk across the road to the Honey Shop for the Melita Honey Farm. We tasted almost all of the 40 different honey samples and then after being assured that the honey was okay to take on the ferry, bought a small jar, and some of their homemade icecream which was absolutely yummy!
Back at camp we met and chatted with our new neighbors before the cold of the afternoon began to arrive and drive us all inside for the rest of the night.
Thursday 09 May 2024
A not so cold night but a cool morning despite the sun doing its best to climb out of bed as well. Being so low on the latitude scale we are noticing the sun's power and warmth, or lack thereof more and more each day now.
Packed up we made our way to Deloraine where Joanne checked the place out and visited the museum while I enjoyed a warm spot in the sun, and some autumnal photography.
Then it was time to hit the road and a short while later we were in Hagley at the Farm Stay RV park. $10 a night gets you a spot and a water tap, or $25 a night for power and water. Our plan is to use this place as a base for the next couple of nights so we can visit and check out Launceston without the house on the back.
Friday 10 May 20224
Parked and paid up for a few days we made our way into Launceston to visit the Cataract Gorge. $6 for the parking and free entry and we were off exploring. We declined the chair lift journey and made our way around to the bridge and then took a walk up the gorge to the lookout and back. Then it was over the bridge and around the other side, a check of the gardens with the beautiful autumn colour's in the rain and the it was time to cross over the river and up to the cafe for coffee and muffins.
The suspension bridge over the river at the start of the gorge.
On our way back to camp we checked out a few little villages and towns out, and even visited a hazelnut farm where we had a good chat about the farm and its operation and left after filling a bag up full of goodies.
Saturday 11 May 2024
Today started off like most others, but sure as heck ended with a bucket list bang!
Launceston for a look around was this mornings destination, and after a few hours for Joanne to explore, we made our way back to camp via some back roads and small villages and towns such as Perth, Longford, Toiberry, Bishopsbourne, Bracknell, Whitemore, and Glenmore, many of which resembled England with their buildings, hedges and even their names.
Back at camp we settled in for the rest of the day, hopeful that the clouds would clear enough to possibly see the Aurora that was forecast.
Forecast at a kP of 8, this was supposed to be the strongest sighting in 20 years. A peak outside around 7pm showed clouds and not much else, then another check not much later showed some promise, and confirmation via 30 second exposure on the camera, showed that it was on!
By the time we got ready, and got out there is was happening, and the longer we were out there the better it got. The neighbors came out and set up their chairs to watch the sky show.
Coming in from the South East and working it's way across the sky to the West, ribbons of light from directly overhead had us mesmerised, and chasing it for the best shot, not knowing where to turn first. Strong enough to be captured on a mobile phone, it was putting on quite a show, even flowing like water across the sky at one stage.
The show went on for about an hour before it died off. The Aurora app was showing that it might a show around 10pm, so we stuck our head out around then and sure enough, there it was, a cloudless sky and wave after wave after wave of colourful delight flowing across the sky, and our camp.
The Aurora over us.
As time went on it just got better and better.
Waves of light began to flow and it was mesmerising to watch.
Directly overhead.
More overhead glow.
And then it was gone, leaving only remnants of colour in the sky as we sought refuge inside from the cold. Both of us were very, very pleased to have been able to tick off a bucket list item, and to have had it happen while we were down here in Tassie.
Sunday 12 May 2024
After such a show in the sky last night we were hoping for a bit of a repeat, and after checking the Aurora app, it seemed like we might get another show, but, it failed to appear.
Monday 13 May 2024
Day off at Hagley Farm RV Stay.
Tuesday 14 May 2024
Left our camp at Hagley and made our way North to Port Sorell for a look around the area and to stay overnight at the caravan park. Nothing too special in all of that, but the large river and ocean entrance was quite pleasant, even with the tide out, and boy was it out a long, long way!
Tide's out.
Wednesday 15 May 2024
Left Port Sorell and made our way through some lovely back roads and undulating farmland to the Railton CMCA RV Park, where as members we get to stay for $7 a night. No power but water, dump point, happy hour, fire and caretaker company.
Thursday 16 May 2024
Took a drive around the area to explore some more. Went through the small towns of Elizabeth Town and Kimberley and enjoyed a cheese tasting and look at the Ashgrove Cheese Company, before heading back to the Railton CMCA RV Park for the night.
That's one big nursery!
About 1/3 of the cheese room. That's a lot of cheese!
Friday 17 May 2024
Another lazy old day, and starting to wind down and get ready for the trip back to the mainland tomorrow.
Saturday 18 May 2024
Left our nice CMCA RV Camp at Railton and made our way to Latrobe where we whiled away the time until we could go to board the ship for our trip to Geelong.
Arrived in Devonport and being a few hours early, we were first in the line for boarding, but being early we, and those who came in just after us just had to wait. Then, with a very easy booking in and quarantine check (including a check for guns, ammunition, alcohol etc), we were back in the line up for boarding, which happened around 5.30pm.
A wonky phone shot of driving back onto the SOT once more.
Leaving the rig on the vehicle deck we made our way to our cabin, and then spent some time walking around, and then eating our evening meal while looking out at the lights of Devonport as the ship pulled away from the wharf, turned in the basin and headed out of the Mersey River and into BAss Straight, the last of the lights disappearing as we made our way back to our cabin.
The Captain told us the journey would be a tad rough but expected it to be around 3 hours after we had sailed, but, the helmsman managed to find the potholes almost as soon as we left the Mersey River Basin!
Sunday 19 May 2024
Both us slept ok, but were awake a few times during the night, the bonus being able to listen to the ship pound into the swell.
Awake before the PA Wake Up call, we got ready and made our way to the comfy chairs and sat there watching the lights of Geelong increase, and then it was time to go down to the vehicle deck.
Berthed and alongside we were ready to get off the ship but one person in front had their vehicle in anti theft mode and so we were held up until a crew member sorted that out for them.
Off the ship and under grey cloud and drizzle, we were making our way to Meredith for cheap fuel and then onto the free camp at Haddon. Then a call with family changed our plans and we ended up turning the opposite direction and making our way through Melbourne (still busy even on a Sunday) and out the other side, eventually stopping with family in Yarragon.
The next week will be for visiting family, playing catch up on a few things, getting the ute serviced and making a plan for what comes next.
Having put together some stats from our trip to Tasmania, we were pleasantly surprised. Here's what we found out.
Days in Tasmania 83 Distance Traveled 6340 km's Fuel Used 876 litres Total Fuel Cost $1913.01
Times spent 2 days in one place - 9 Times spent 3 or more days in one place - 10 Days off – no touring travel - 16
And here in Green, is where we went
Mark Twain once said "...years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do that by the things you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - and so we will.
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